The river is the heart of it. From Nonthaburi Pier, next to the old clock tower and the teak former city hall that now houses the provincial museum, a short crossing leads to Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat, a royal temple from the reign of Rama III, and the breezy lawns of Chaloem Kanchanaphisek Park. Locals come early to walk, jog and sit by the water.
Nonthaburi is also, quietly, a capital of Thai health policy: the Ministry of Public Health complex on Tiwanon Road includes a museum and training centre for Thai traditional medicine surrounded by herb gardens. For deeper practice, Wat Sangkhathan on the west bank runs weekend meditation retreats.